Sicily, Mt Etna & Aeolian Islands - October 10-17, 2009
Introduction
Sicily's pathways are timeless from the volcanic island of Lipari, to Taormina where Roman nobility built their villas.
Walking in sight of the sea almost every day we hike Mount Etna's smoldering flanks, stroll the shore front in Siracusa, once a capital of Classical antiquity, and ferry to the Aeolian Islands for two days of spectacular coastal walking. Here we explore Forza d'Agro, a pretty hillside village, featured in The Godfather.
We ease our muscles with a dip in hot sulphur mud pools and delight in swimming in glass-clear seas.
Walk Summary
| Date | 10-OCT-09 - 17-OCT-09 |
| Trip | 8 days, 7 nights |
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| Price |
Walk begins in Siracusa, with arrival at Catania Airport and ends in Taormina, with departure from Catania Airport.
Walk Itinerary
Saturday
We meet in Catania airport and head to our hotel in ancient Siracusa. We enjoy a guided tour of the archaeological park and Greek theater and, later, a visit to fabled Ortygia, before returning to the hotel for an Introductory Talk and Welcome Dinner.
Sunday
Today we walk in the Vendicari Nature Reserve, a narrow strip of marshy coastline that provides a habitat for many migratory species and we can admire a wide variety of birds. If you have binoculars with you, today is the day to bring them! After lunch, we visit the splendid baroque town of Noto with its lovely golden limestone buildings. We see the famous cathedral, recently re-opened after long restoration and the Palazzo Nicolaci di Villadorata, home to a family of princes since 1700. Dinner is in a restaurant much favoured by the locals.
Monday
An excursion today takes us to the Reserve of Pantalica situated inland in the valley of Anapo,an extraordinary succession of gorges and canyons crossed by two rivers: the Anapo and Cavagrande. Here we see Pantalica, a Bronze age settlement and the largest Necropolis in the Mediterranean, where thousands of tombs give a beehive appearance to the cliff-face. After lunch in a local farm house, we head north to Milazzo, once the Spanish Viceroy's residence and the main seat of the The Inquisition. It has a promenade by the sea with many colourful fishing boats on the shore.
Tuesday
After visiting the incredible fish market, we ferry to the Aeolian Islands, landing on Vulcano - named for the Roman god 'Vulcan' and now the eponymous 'volcano'. From the heights of this most perfect volcano - which still puffs sulphurous steam from its cauldron - we will enjoy one of the most breathtaking views on the archipelago. After a soothing dip in sulphur mud pools, we take a private boat trip across to the island of Lipari. We arrive at the white cliffs of the pumice quarries, for a chance to swim in the enticing blue and glass-clear sea.
Wednesday
From Via Palmeto on the plateau, our walk in Lipari passes by a few scattered houses, fields, gardens and beautiful prickly pear cacti to join a mule track down towards the sea. In view beyond the pristine coastline, set mid-way to the horizon, lie the western islands of Salina and Filicudi. We have lunch in the village of Quattropani and then slowly descend to the other side of the island to the little hamlet of Acquacalda and the mass of pumice quarries. We return to the bustle of Lipari .
Thursday
We drive to Forza d'Agro, to explore this pretty old town on a hillside above the sea, mostly abandoned by the inhabitants during the big emigration at the beginning of the 20th century. We see the church used in the wedding scene of 'The Godfather', before heading along old tracks, which follow the contours of the hills. We pass isolated communities and farmsteads overlooking stunning views of the distant mountain ranges and coastline. We return to Forza d'Agro for lunch. Our afternoon takes us to Taormina and finally to its impressive Greek Theater. We take a guided tour of this lovely town and walk among beautiful villas and restored gardens w ith a huge variety of flowering and exotic plants, blessed by a mild climate. And so to our hotel overlooking the Mediterranean.
Friday
Today we walk on Mount Etna, Europe's most famous active volcano. It reaches to almost 11,000 ft and dominates the city of Catania and its surrounding sea. Around the crater is a lunar landscape but the lower slopes are extremely fertile. The flora displays itself as a Garden of Eden; the land abounds in oranges, mandarins, lemons, olives, prickly pears, bananas, eucalyptus and the vines that produce the excellent Etna wine. We continue on to explore the national park, walking through pine woods and old lava flows. Our Farewell Dinner is in the hotel restaurant with splendid panoramic views.
Saturday
In the morning we have time to relax and shop in the charming town of Taormina, before we leave for Catania Airport.
This itinerary represents a typical Walk. We prepare itineraries well in advance of the trip and therefore we reserve the right to make changes due to weather, local events or other circumstances - but always to improve the experience of our guests.
Hotels
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This hotel list is a provided as an example. We may use different hotels of the same quality and style on specific trips. The Wayfarers will notify confirmed travelers of any changes to the hotels.
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Travel Information
Before & After:
- Follow in the footsteps of the ancient Knights of St. John and visit the nearby island of Malta and other exotic locations on the North African coast.
- Ferry over to Reggio di Calabria to explore the wild 'boot' of Italy.
Weather:
The end of April sees temperatures warming up to an average daily maximum of about 19°C (66°F). Most days will be dry with around 8 hours of sunshine but there could still be some rain. In October temperatures are still averaging 21°C (70°F) with around 6 hours of sunshine and there is the possibility of a visit from the "Sirocco" warm wind to increase temperatures a little. You will need a sweater or light jacket in the evenings and good quality, light rain protection is recommended on all walks. The sea can be surprisingly bracing in April but is still comfortably warm to swim in October.
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FAQs
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Are there any hidden costs?
Our Vacations do not include the cost of air or rail fares to and from the destination or tips for your walk leader and manager. -
How large are the Groups?
Our maximum group size is 16, but groups average between 8-12 people. -
Will I feel welcome as a single traveler?
Yes! Our walks are the perfect environment of comfortable camaraderie for the single traveler. -
Can you accomodate special diets?
Yes! -
How physically fit do I have to be to do a Wayfarers Walk?
If you are in good health and reasonably fit you will be comfortable participating in a walk.
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Reading List
August Heat is the tenth in teh series of crime novels by Andrea Camilleri featuring the idiosyncratic Inspector Montalbano. This latest book demonstrates once again why the author is held in such high esteem and why Montalbano is one of the treasures of the modern crime genre.
The setting is, as always, the picturesque landscape of rural Sicily and the daily life of the region is portryaed in the description of the customs and eccentricities of this intriguing island.
A combination of the scenery and the hero's (and presumably the author's) passion for Sicilian cuisine, mouth-wateringly described, present an irresistible invitation to visit and savor the experience at first hand.
Zen has been exiled to Sicily under the guise of acting as a sort of watchdog, observing a recently reestablished anti-Mafia taskforce. By the nature of the locale--Sicily makes its own rules--the fact that the work of this commission will inevitably be compromised seems clear. But where the cracks in the system will reveal themselves is harder to figure out until, of course, it's too late. Distracted by his dying mother back in Rome and by the island's perverse feuds and even stranger loyalties, and paying not quite enough attention to the professional travails of his beautiful adopted daughter, Carla, a computer specialist, Zen travels his usual idiosyncratic route to a crime's resolution. As always, he is most intrigued by the ambiguities of the situation--and is doomed to be the sacrificial scapegoat.
Set in Sicily in 1860, as Italian unification is coming violently into being, but it transcends the historical-novel classification. E.M. Forster called it, instead, "a novel which happens to take place in history." Lampedusa's Sicily is a land where each social gesture is freighted with nuance, threat, and nostalgia, and his skeptical protagonist, Don Fabrizio, is uniquely placed to witness all and alter absolutely nothing. Like his creator, the prince is an aristocrat and an astronomer, a man "watching the ruin of his own class and his own inheritance without ever making, still less wanting to make, any move toward saving it What renders The Leopard so beautiful, and so despairing, is Lampedusa's grasp of human frailty and his vision of Sicily's arid terrain--"comfortless and irrational, with no lines that the mind could grasp, conceived apparently in a delirious moment of creation; a sea suddenly petrified at the instant when a change of wind had flung waves into frenzy." Though the author had long had the book in mind, he didn't begin writing it until he was in his late 50s. He died at 60, soon after it was rejected as unpublishable.
A novelist, polemicist, occasional politician and perennial nominee for the Nobel Prize, Leonardo Sciascia died in 1989. He left behind a formidable array of books, all of which revolve arround the hallucinatory realities of Sicilian life. But the stories collected in The Wine Dark Sea may be the best introduction to his work. They offer a kind of capsule-history of Sicily, ranging through several hundred years and engaging the country's events from their exhilarating and terrible underside.
An excellent account of two Sicilian prosecutors whose investigation of the Mafia led to the top levels of the Italian government and eventually, to their own murders. Throughout the 1980s, Falcone and Borsellino brought down more heat on the "men of honor" than anyone since Mussolini's handpicked "Iron Prefect." The two not only sent hundreds of gangsters to jail, they also exposed Mafia corruption of national political leaders that led to the indictments of two of Italy's best-known politicians, Bettino Craxi and Guilio Adreotti. The success of their investigations brought on reprisals by corrupt politicians designed to weaken police and prosecutors alike and ultimately led to their deaths. Falcone and Borsellino were assassinated by bombs in 1992, but their work brought to light revelations that are rattling the current Berlusconi administration. Stille has crafted an excellent book, deftly weaving complex threads of information about Italian, Sicilian, and Mafia history, Italian politics, and Italian jurisprudence into a highly readable narrative.
A journey into the heart of Sicily, using art, food, history and literature to shed light on southern Italy's legacy of political corruption and violent crime. The book takes as its starting point the ongoing trial of seven-times Prime Minister Giulio Andreotti.
A few months after the trauma of 9-11, Prose embarked with her husband on a trip to Sicily "partly to discover what this island has learned and can teach us about the triumph of beauty over violence, of life over death." She colorfully invokes the profuse legends and myths linked with Sicily (Homer’s "Island of the Sun" where Odysseus washed ashore) as a classical backdrop to her own odyssey, which at times in fact assumes the character of a trip back to a timeless, pre-modern way of life. Prose is especially effective at threading into her narrative fascinating items of reference—artistic, historical, and sociopolitical—without appearing didactic. She packs an extraordinary amount of information into her account: art historical observations (including a trenchant interpretation of Caravaggio’s disturbing "The Burial of St. Lucy"), the spectacle of religious ecstatic, accounts of culinary traditions, political intrigue, and memorable character sketches of people engaged in everyday habits, with the novelist’s touch for the telling detail. Throughout, Prose is keen to capture Sicily’s vacillating moods—its cheerful colors as well as its melancholy strain—as a place that "has seen countless cycles of violence and peace, of poverty and prosperity, of horror and beauty"—and yet embodies humanity’s will to survive.
Sicily, a place of recurring interest to prolific British author Lewis, is the setting of this mixture of straightforward travel narrative and social commentary. As Lewis visits different towns on the island, he compares modern-day Sicily with his World War II memories, noting the changes that have taken place over the last few decades. Along the way, he not only encourages readers to visit and experience Sicily but also creates vacation destinations out of many small towns on the island through his colorful anecdotes. He devotes a great deal of space to the Mafia and its influence on Sicily's daily life and includes chilling stories of a 1947 massacre. There are also reflections on the effects of recent African immigration and the island's changing sexual mores. The author eventually concludes that despite the addition of numerous hotels and cafés and the cleaning and modernization of urban areas, Sicilian culture and traditions have changed little since his first visit.
Anecdotal tales form the author's life in Taorimina.
What's Next?
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